Comfort Me with Apples by Ruth Reichl was the perfect comfort read as I was dealing daily with this impossibly annoying sinus infection that left me really irritable (hold your comments those who know me and say, "So what's different?"). What makes it interesting is that solely as a function of when which book got into my hands, I am reading her books in Memento-esque style (less the tattoos and violence) so as I'm reading Comfort Me with Apples, I already know about her experiences as the New York Times Food Critic. So I would find myself reading and saying, "Doug? Wait a minute, I thought her husband's name was Michael? Oh, I get it, different book, different husband." all of which is explained in the book.
Reichl's story begins in Berkeley in a commune-like house in the late 1970's where her career as a food critic begins to the great consternation of her housemates who are kinda earthy-crunchy, with strong political views on the ascension of restaurants to revered status reminiscent of a food scene out of Caligula. But, you can't help but get swept up in Reichl's almost reverent appreciation of food! She tries anything, goes anywhere and experiences the gamut of the process from finding the right ingredients to the presentation at the table. She hangs out with Alice Waters and Wolfgang Puck...chefs who were considered maverick crazy Californians back then, but whose names are household words now and whose use of intriguing ingredients and combinations have infused the modern day Betty Crocker with flair and internationalism.
The intertwining of her own story with her "adventures at the table" never feels contrived. It never feels like she is promoting the food as justification for her life choices or vice versa. Through it all, the food is there...almost a backdrop while still a main character.
When you think about this "genre", the food memoir, it wouldn't have existed 30 years ago. Was the iconic Laurie Colwin the first true food memoirist? Although her oeuvre transcends the food memoir with several novels and books of short stories, Colwin made us feel comfortable about the food we prepare in our home in Home Cooking and More Home Cooking and gave us license to be adventurous, try new recipes as the guests are approaching the door and just live a little in our day-to-day food preparation. Perhaps not as lyrically or as timelessly, but Ruth Reichl makes us feel that same sense of adventure dining out.
I will be fascinated to read Tender at the Bone, her experiences growing up at the table...especially having read of her later years. I don't have it on my shelf yet, but word to whoever picked my name...here's a hint!
Di
So many people I know love Tender At The Bone. I'll have to pick these up, as I've read neither. But, I'm all about reading of food!
Posted by: Bellezza | November 11, 2006 at 06:37 PM
I enjoyed the first half of Tender At the Bone better than the second half. I'll have to see if I can dig up my review (in a reading journal - not online) and see what I had to say. It's been several years. I do remember the first part of the book was quite funny!
Posted by: Les in NE | November 11, 2006 at 06:44 PM